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Updated: 19 min 52 sec ago

3d Boat

1 hour 33 min ago

Hello,

Was reading the start here thread and followed the suggestion to print a benchy boat. Printed it on my new Maker Plus Select with PLA, used Cura and here's my settings.

layer height .1

Print speed: 80

Printing Temp: 195

bed temp: 60

I noticed it seems kind of rough on the top of the door frames, also the top side of the roof is pretty rough. Still really new to this doesn't seem terrible but would like to get it smoother.

https://i.imgur.com/OJJqheH.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/gSfTx4t.png

https://i.imgur.com/9vgO8jf.png

submitted by /u/dkraklan
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What can I do to improve adhesion on BuildTak like surfaces?

1 hour 53 min ago

I currently own an Ender 3, and it has a heated BuildTak-like surface. I've been told I shouldn't use gluestick on it so I'm not sure how else I can improve my bed adhesion. I haven't has any issues before when printing smaller objects, but for larger prints, the areas further away from the centre of the bed tend to warp as it's further away from the heating element and in some cases the entire print slides/lifts off the bed.

What I'm currently trying to print are the wings of the Spitfire Mk XVI by 3dlabprint.com

I've had 4 print failures so far, all due to the wings lifting or sliding off the bed. The largest section warped, and the smaller sections toppled over a few hours into the print. I had no issues with the fuselage so I'm guessing it's due to the smaller cross-section of the wings.

submitted by /u/Spawnage_Loong
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Willing to Buy 3D Printer??

2 hours 40 min ago

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https://i.redd.it/e7j3ec92a3511.jpg

Buy 3D printers from 3d Galaxy which provides you the best and products at best price. They are also serving high quality 3D printing services at affordable rates here they turn our ideas into 3D printed reality.

3D printing has made it easier and ecstatic to personalize objects to make them look unique and up to the par and that’s exactly what we are looking for. It explores all of the popular filaments in use today by providing expertise to improve our result in every move. For best 3D printing services one should must visit here.

submitted by /u/poojaobabuji
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Core XY or prusa tyoe printer?

2 hours 54 min ago

I am in quite a pickle...I own a tevo tarantula and I am seriously thinking about buying another printer. The problem is that I don't knpw whether to buy another prusa type printer or a corexy. I have seen the new creality for 200€ m, but I have also been looking at the flsun 3d cube for around that price, plus I get two dual extruders and a touchscreen for like 50 bucks more. Also, the build volume is like 26x26x35, which is awesome. I am leaning towards the flsun but I would like to know if you have some experience with cube printers and if they can perfom better. Needless to say I am poor... so more than 300 bucks is too much. Thank you in advace, I love you guys

submitted by /u/gabriyankee
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Modifying 3D SLA for Bioprinting

3 hours 30 min ago

Taking on a build this summer to modify a 3D SLA printer for bioprinting purposes for my research. I was wondering if there was any information or community help / direction to point me towards where to source for this build. I have some research currently archived to help me with the construction of this prototype and am currently looking at modifying a reasonably inexspensive (sub 2k) 3d printer so that I can modify for my bioprinting research. Again all thanks appreciated!

submitted by /u/jungle_me
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Another 3d printed planter

Tue, 06/19/2018 - 23:19

Help me understand filament type heat tolerances

Tue, 06/19/2018 - 23:14

I have searched, but can't seem to find any kind of chart for the different filament types.

Most manufacturers don't even list the temperature the filament is rated for. Matterhackers, hatchbox and esun to name a few.

What I would like to do is print a spare extruder body for my mk2s in a material better than abs.

On the prusa site I found it says the extruder body is printed in abs which is supposed to be rated to 98c.

Which is confusing to me because I print pla at 220-230 and has me worried I will melt the extruder body at some point.

I had heard they have printed the extruder body in petg for the mk3 and some have complained it doesn't hold up to the heat.

Is there some kind of rule of thumb for filament temperature I am missing?

submitted by /u/drcigg
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Silicone Socks

Tue, 06/19/2018 - 22:16

https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-instead-insulation-Flashforge-SILICONE/dp/B07BPLLT2K/ref=sr_1_30?ie=UTF8&qid=1529460891&sr=8-30&keywords=wanhao+i3+hotend

Can something like this replace the tape and insulation? I took apart my nozzle to see if it was the reason for failed prints and tore up the insulation. These look easier to clean/replace than the tape and insulation.

submitted by /u/FutureFarm1
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Random clicking, even when head and extruder are stationary. MP Maker Ultimate (Wanhao D6)

Tue, 06/19/2018 - 22:02

EDIT: Solved by /u/cliffeed. Thanks!

Just unboxed my Monoprice Maker Ultimate and am printing my first piece. While printing, it was making clicking/cracking sounds. I searched here and there and all the solutions seem to be loosening the grub screws on the bearing housings.

I paused the print to get at them, but the clicking continued with the print head in the home position, nothing being extruded. It's not the nozzle cooling fan. Sounds like it's coming from somewhere deep within. Like a cricket, every time I move my head to locate the source, it “moves” as well.

Is it common for the clicking to occur even when the print head is at rest? Looking for some help before I monkey with those grub screws.

Thanks.

submitted by /u/station_nine
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Marlin Skew Correction, what am i missing?

Tue, 06/19/2018 - 21:53

i am only trying to correct for vertical xz skew. this is the config section with my xz data input. what am i missing?

#define SKEW_CORRECTION

#if ENABLED(SKEW_CORRECTION)

// Input all length measurements here:

#define XY_DIAG_AC 282.8427124746

#define XY_DIAG_BD 282.8427124746

#define XY_SIDE_AD 200

// Or, set the default skew factors directly here

// to override the above measurements:

//#define XY_SKEW_FACTOR 0.0

#define SKEW_CORRECTION_FOR_Z

#if ENABLED(SKEW_CORRECTION_FOR_Z)

#define XZ_DIAG_AC 140.56

#define XZ_DIAG_BD 139.75

#define YZ_DIAG_AC 282.8427124746

#define YZ_DIAG_BD 282.8427124746

#define YZ_SIDE_AD 200

#define XZ_SKEW_FACTOR 0.0

#define YZ_SKEW_FACTOR 0.0

#endif

// Enable this option for M852 to set skew at runtime

#define SKEW_CORRECTION_GCODE

#endif

submitted by /u/Freighttt
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Inland PLA vs PLA+ - Change of distributor on old PLA? Which is eSUN?

Tue, 06/19/2018 - 21:28

A few months ago there was this topic here: https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/805cyb/inland_pla_changing_manufacturers_anyone_know_who/

Fast-forward to today, when I just was at Microcenter and saw the plain PLA on sale for $12.99/kg which is an amazing deal.

I also notice new filament spools inside the same white boxes that have said "new improved formula" for at least 2 months now... I hop over to the 3D printers on display and see them using this new spool style and a friend of mine feels the filament with me and we both agree that it feels terribly gritty and rough.

Something has changed for sure -- which led me to find the topic above.

That was a 3 month old topic, so now that some time has passed, I'm hoping to gather your thoughts.

  1. Is the Inland on these new spools with zip top bags worse than the old stuff?
  2. Is the old stuff still being stocked in the regular white boxes?
  3. Is PLA+ now just the old stuff, or is it actually a different formula?
  4. is the PLA+ still eSUN? I was getting great results with the Inland branded eSUN stuff before.
  5. If it is a totally different PLA in the white boxes (it seems to be) who is the manufacturer of it now?

Overall just looking to gather thoughts, would like to return the massive amounts of filament I bought today if it's going to cause problems like people state in that old thread, and just go back and get all PLA+ instead, especially if it's eSUN's PLA Pro/+ filament. It's also on sale for $1 off list price right now.

Thanks!

submitted by /u/B1tN1nja
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I fucked up... Need help.

Tue, 06/19/2018 - 20:54

A long time ago, me and my crew were hardcore into mage knight. one day my friend came home with a little diddy called the Apocalypse Dragon. A promo only, super limited edition ultra dragon god of death and chaos. See the magnificent beast here https://www.collector-actionfigures.com/dash/universe/catalog_item/AF-267532/

Flash forward some years, I'm watching Critical Role, a D&D twitch stream with voice actors that play D&D. I decide to start a D&D group. the ocean of Mage Knight mini's come in super useful. My brother lets me borrow a bunch, including... The Apocalypse Dragon.

About six months ago, I wanted to have a look at the dragon again, as I do every so often, and to my horror, I found that the dragon's wings have gone missing... the Dragon is worth anywhere from $200-$300. And that's if you can actually find someone to sell it to you. there are only around 200 or so.

I have torn my house apart, my car apart, my wife's car apart. -4 times over... I know they were originally there when he let me borrow it.
They're just gone.

FML

It's not even mine.

The only thing I can think of, is maybe I can print another pair somehow. But I have no idea how to go about that.

All I can think of is that I need some digital blueprints for the wings (wherever the hell I might get those from, I have no idea) and then just find someone who has a good printer.

Is there any god-sent soul out there that can help unfuck my life and this $300+ dollar problem? ( Once again, that's if I can even find a seller willing to part with a magnificent and rare piece of art.)

submitted by /u/Tiogah
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[Question] Removing empty space from an STL?

Tue, 06/19/2018 - 20:50

I've got an STL I want to print, but it's got a bunch of empty, wasted space so I can't make it larger in Cura.

I've tried a few online repair tools, each of which fail to work. Also tried the windows 3d tool to repair it, but that just sits and hangs without ever finishing.

Anyway, it prints fine there's just a huge area of wasted space where the model isn't when I import it into Cura.

Also tried importing into Fusion 360 and exporting but it retains the same artifacts.

Any other ideas?

Thanks!

submitted by /u/shadowycoder
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